Maternity High-Low Circle Skirt Tutorial

Here's another one of our fan favorites from the now defunct old blog. I hope you enjoy my Maternity High-Low Circle Skirt Tutorial!


This skirt seriously took me about an hour to make once I determined how to make my pattern. Hopefully with this tutorial, it should take you about an hour to make the entire thing! Pair it with your favorite tops and belt to create a faux maternity dress!

Maternity High-Low Circle Skirt Tutorial
 (Want to download the printable PDF Tutorial? Get it here!
NOTE: It should be free to download - if it's not, email me and I will send you a copy!)

 Supplies Needed:
Poster board, construction paper or pattern paper that you can make large enough by taping together to meet your measurement needs
Tape  
Scissors
Pencil
Marker
Scratch Paper
1.5 to 2 yds Fabric – 58-60” wide
o   1.5 yds suitable for knits – you will have a seam down the back of your skirt as well as on the sides
o   2 yds suitable for knits and all other fabrics – you will likely NOT have a seam down the back of your skirt – only on the sides
Matching Thread
1 Inch Elastic – 1 Yard (See Note Below)
o   Measure your underbust measurement first – this will determine your elastic needs.
2 Safety Pins

Instructions:
1.      Determine the following measurements before beginning:
a.      Underbust/Upperbelly measurement: Taken directly under your bust line, where the skirt will ultimately sit.
b.      Front Length measurement (fl): From the center of your “underbust/upperbelly” measurement, measure downward, over your belly, where you would like the highest point of your skirt.
c.       Back Length measurement (bl): You may ask a friend to take this measurement for you or you could look in a mirror to determine how many inches you would like the back to swoop down from the front.

2.      To determine your pattern “waist” size (w), you will want to add approximately 6 inches to your underbust/upperbelly measurement. Once you have this measurement, use the chart below to determine your radius (r) of your “waist” circle on your pattern:

Underbust/Upperbelly Measurement
“Waist” Size (w)
Radius (r)
24
30
9.5
26
32
10
28
34
10.75
30
36
11.5
32
38
12
34
40
12.75
36
42
13.25
38
44
14
40
46
14.5

3.      Add a seam allowance for the elastic waist casing to your (fl) meausurement of 1.5”, as well as a seam allowance for a hem of .5” = 2” total. This will be your final (fl) measurement.

4.      Add a seam allowance for the elastic waist casing to your (bl) meausurement of 1.5”, as well as a seam allowance for a hem of .5” = 2” total. This will be your final (bl) measurement.

5.      On a small piece of scratch paper, draw out a mini-version of your pattern using the (r), (w), (fl) and (bl) measurements so that you can determine how much pattern paper you will need to craft your real pattern.  It should look somewhat like this:

 

6.      Create and Transfer your measurements from your scrap paper pattern to your actual pattern paper.
7.      You will notice that the yellow line, your swoop of the hemline is subjective – this is up to you! It will automatically have the high low hem. Here are variations to consider:

Even swoop front to back

 Dramatic swoop front to back

8.      I highly recommend tracing your pieces with a large marker so that you can determine where they begin and end. Cut the pattern pieces out!

9.      To determine where you place your side seam, after cutting out the large piece, simply fold the waist (w) in half down to the hemline of the skirt. Reopen the skirt, draw and additional line for the side seam and cut out.

10.  Now you are ready to cut! If using knit fabric, you will not have to worry about the bias. However, if you are not using a knit, ensure that you cut your fabric on the bias (diagonal against the grain of the fabric) or it will not lay correctly.  You will have 2 pieces.
NOTE: If you chose to only purchase 1.5 yards of fabric, you may need to cut the back into two pieces instead of creating one piece by cutting on the fold. Simply cut a left and a right piece.

Let’s Sew!!

11.  ONLY IF YOU HAVE 3 PIECES INSTEAD OF 2. IF YOU HAVE A FRONT AND A BACK, SKIP TO #12. Sew the back seam together by joining the two back centers, right sides together and seaming.

12.  Place your back skirt piece on a flat surface so that the right side of the fabric is visible to you. Take the front skirt piece, right side down and place on top of the back skirt piece matching the side seams.

13.  Pin seams together and sew each side. You may use a serger or a straight stitch on your sewing machine.
If using a knit and not sewing on a serger, use a zig zag seam, double needle or your preferred knit sewing method.

14.  If using a non-knit fabric: Fold “waist band” (wrong sides meet) down ¼”, press and fold an additional 1 ¼” to create casing for elastic. Begin sewing on the outside, side seam of your fabric at approximately 1 1/8” to ensure you catch the casing and create a nice pocket for the elastic. Stop approximately 2” before where you began to allow enough room to insert elastic properly.
If using a knit fabric: You may choose to serge the edge of the knit, taking off approximately ¼” as you sew. This will bind the edge. However, as most knit does not ravel, you can choose to skip this. Simply fold over the “waist band”(wrong sides meet) down 1 ½”, press and begin sewing on the outside, side seam of your fabric at approximately 1 1/8” to ensure you catch the casing and create a nice pocket for the elastic. Stop approximately 2” before where you began to allow enough room to insert elastic properly.

15.  Take your “underbust/upperbelly” measurement and your elastic. This will be the guide for cutting your elastic to size. I like to subtract approximately 3” inches from the measurement when cutting my elastic to ensure that the skirt fits snugly on my body – you make the call. Cut your elastic to your altered measurement.

16.  Insert your elastic using the “safety pin method.”
Secure one end of the elastic to the band of the skirt from the outside. On the other end, secure the safety pin so that you can use it for threading of the elastic through the casing. Gently feed this end into your casing and using the safety pin to guide it through to meet the other end that you have pinned.

17.  With both elastic ends together, secure elastic by sewing with a straight stitch approximately ½” from both ends, forward and backward several times. Secure further by separating the elastic ends and zig zag stitching each end to the elastic. Elastic should neatly tuck inside entire casing and lay flat.

18.  From the outside of the skirt (right side of fabric), close up the 2” gap that you left in the casing for the elastic, securing the waistband into the skirt. (DO NOT SEW THE ELASTIC AT THIS POINT.)

Now all that is left is to hem the skirt and you are done! I suggest trying it on at this point in front of a mirror to ensure that you are happy with the length of the skirt. Make alterations if needed.

Hemming Variations/Options:
1.   ¼” Roll Hem – This is easiest with a non-knit fabric – it is incredibly small to allow for full movement in the skirt. Begin by carefully folding ¼” from the bottom of the skirt, wrong sides together. Press. Fold again ¼” to secure the fabric inside the seam. Press. From the outside, sew slightly less than ¼” from the bottom of the skirt all the way around to finish your hem.
2.   Frayed Hem – If you are sewing a linen and would like a “frayed” look, simply even the hem line (if for some reason it may not be straight) and with a straight stitch, stitch on the outside of the skirt at approximately ½” from the edge. This will ensure your fabric does not fray farther than the ½”. Simply wash and the fraying should take care of itself!
3.   Serged Rolled Edge Hem – Regardless of the type of fabric you are using, you can do a rolled edge hem on the garment (that’s what I did). Simply adjust your serger to the correct setting, choose a thread you are comfortable viewing from the right side of your garment and sew your rolled edge hem ½” from the bottom of the skirt all the way around.  (NOTE: This is the type of hem that I did on my skirt – See Pictures)
4.   Knit “No Hem” – Lost patience? Sometimes that happens when you are pregnant! If so and you have used a knit, simply even up the hem line and leave it!

Disclaimer:  Please do not copy this pattern without permission of the creator and author.  Please do not sell as your own item without prior consent and crediting CreativeMatrimony as your source for the pattern.  Email all questions regarding the pattern and policies to info@creativematrimony.com

Prudent Baby DIY Nursing Cover Up

I made this a while back (while I was pregnant) and posted it on my old blog. Since you can no longer access those pages, I decided I would post it again for all to see! Here's the review of the Prudent Baby DIY Nursing Cover Up.


This was one of the easiest and best written tutorials I have ever used! I am still floored by how simple and fast the entire thing was to make! The boning went in like a breeze and for those of you that are beginning sewists, don't fear - this is something that takes little to no brain power! (It's perfect for pregnancy brain!)

Review:
Essentially, the tutorial consists of cutting out three rectangles of fabric, lots of ironing and some stitching! If you can sew straight lines, you can sew yourself a Nursing Cover! Why spend $30-$40 on a cover? Find a yard of fabric that you like and make yourself one for under $5 or $10 depending on the fabric you choose.


Variations you could try:
If your baby is born in the winter months, you may consider a cute cotton shell that will be seen from the outside world (instead of you!) and lining it with cotton minky fabric. Be sure to wash both to account for shrinkage in the fabric prior to sewing it up.
Have leftover scraps of fabric that are big enough length wise but maybe not width wise? Piece them together? You could go for a patchwork look or have three panels for a sophisticated but quirky look.
Want to make your cover up fancy? Try some metallic thread in a decorative stitch on the hem line or a few rows right above it on a solid color fabric.

Find the entire tutorial at Prudent Baby.

Free Sesame Street Inspired Birthday Invitation Printables

Two of your favorite characters come to life on this postcard-optimized birthday invitation. Bryce is actually our little one and since we are doing a Sesame Street themed party for his one-year birthday, we thought you may be interested in using the invitation as well.


The invitations are optimized for printing at a post card size. We had ours printed at Staples and simply uploaded them to the site, ordered them and picked them up. (The white bar at the bottom on the back is per USPS shipping regulation, so don't crop that out!)

To make the invitations your own, simply download the front and the back of the blank invitation and use some sort of photo or presentation software like Photoshop, PicMonkey or even PowerPoint to create text boxes with your information. If you are curious as to what text we used, it's called: Good Dog.

Here are the examples - the CreativeMatrimony.com watermarks are not on the blank versions.

Front


Back


We would love to see your creations! Upload them to the Creative Matrimony Facebook page!

Want to share this post: All we ask is that you credit CreativeMatrimony.com, link to THIS page to get the download links and send us a quick email with the link to your post.

Looking for the individual digital papers to make your own Sesame Street Inspired project? Purchase them directly from RedPepperPapers on Etsy!

Roman Shade Tutorial: Assembly - Part 2

The final installment in our Roman Shade Tutorial. I hope by now, you have successfully made it through Determining Your Fabric Requirements and Measurements and Part 1 of Assembly.

As in the previous posts, please note, for the purpose of this tutorial, the black denotes the WRONG side of the main fabric. The turquoise is the RIGHT side of the main fabric. The grey is the RIGHT side of the lining fabric.

Step 7: Using your measurements that you determined for the spacing of your folds, mark in three places (see dots below) the middle of each fold/rod pocket. Each pocket will be 1" total, so to accurately mark them, be sure to add 1/2 inch to the bottom fold measurement and then add 1" from there on. 

Remember, from the measurements, you will divide for an odd number of folds but only construct the lesser, even number.



Step 8: In this step, you will begin actually constructing the rod pockets.  Fold your fabric from the lining side in toward the RIGHT side of the fabric (so RIGHT sides TOGETHER) and pin. 



Step 9: Here's the fun part! You are going to sew the rod pockets - this is where your roman shade really comes together. Using thread that matches your lining, stitch a seam 1/2" from the middle markings of your folds.



Your Roman Shade is basically made! Let's mount it and add the finishing touches so it works, but the hardest part is done!

Step 10: Cover your 1"x2" mounting board with your coordinating fabric. It will show from the sides and depending on the height of your window, may show from the top. 

When we measured the fabric for the drape, we allowed 3 inches at the top for mounting purposes. Place your mounting board down with the edge of the 2" wide side down (and the 1" side up) on the lower edge of the 3" mark. 



Step 11: With your board as you placed it, wrap your fabric over the 1" portion and onto the top 2" side. Use your staple gun to secure the fabric onto the mounting board on the top 2" side. Try to be as neat as possible with the staples, while keeping the fabric taut. 



Step 12: Insert your 3/16" dowels into the rod pockets. Also insert your 1.5"w flat wooden piece into the hem line of the drape. 

Step 13: Sew plastic rings on even rod pockets (counting from the top). (See chart below to determine the number of rings to sew based on the width of your curtain.)



Step 14: Attach (screw in) metal loops to the underside of the mounting board in line with the rings you sewed on. You will need one metal loop per row of rings.

Step 15: Secure braided cording by knotting cord and thread through one row of rings and through metal loops to desired side of pull. Complete for each row of rings/loops. Be sure to cut cording long enough so that you have ample cording to raise and lower the shade. 



Step 16: Mount your shade and off you go! Be sure to mount a rope cleat to wind your cording on when the shade is raised. 

Let us know if you have any questions!

Not feeling up to making your own Roman Shades? 
No problem! We can make them for you with your own fabric. Check out our listing on Etsy.